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La Nouvelle Vague de la Maison Corthay

If you have yet to see in-person a pair of leathers from the famed Parisian bottier Corthay, you must make a point to.  Though not exactly in line with my more conservative wardrobe, one can nevertheless appreciate their collections of unmatched patina as fine works of art, in or out of the shoemaking world.  I rubbernecked their Landmark Hong Kong window display on my inaugural visit, and I’ve since made a point to admire the gallery when I’m nearby.

Next month, I’ll pay special attention to Maison Corthay when two new models, the Brighton and Twist, arrive to Hong Kong.  The pair are brothers of the same chord, as they draw their inspiration from the tastefully brazen youth of sixties rock ‘n’ roll.

The Brighton

As properly fancy this model seems, it carries a name of a time in music history I couldn’t believe until I saw: the Mods & Rockers Brawl of 1964.  Brighton Beach was the capital theatre of the two-day war, and for being neatly ironed and decked, the Mods held their own.  So there you have it.  Holy shit, that actually happened:

To their collection of unique flourishes, Maison Corthay has added one more: a strap at the heel that the wearer can tuck or flaunt at his discretion. The asymmetrist in me would like to try one in, one out.

 

Here’s a fine example of that famous Corthay patina. With the shadowy fading of color from toe to vamp, each Corthay is born with its own spotlight. Well-deserved, at that.

 

I’m a sucker for suede, and this is my standout favorite of the Brighton varietals. Almost understated, were it not for the high-contrast piping that reminds that at its heart, it’s a shoe for kicks.
The Twist

Before we get into it, note that this model is named after the style of song and dance that swept the early sixties, known as “yé-yé.”  Between my aunt teaching everyone the dance to Chubby Checker during New Year’s Eve 1991, and later Megan Draper’s infamously uncomfortable gift of “Zou Bisou Bisou” to poor ol’ Don, I don’t know much of the genre.  But in my short research, no one did it better than Anthony Richard, perched on a barstool while a harem of twisters went twisting to the left, twisting to the right, twisting behind glass paneling, twisting to Richard’s sweet tune:


Anthony Richard – Yaya twist by Salut-les-copains

This is a shoe that is telling my conservative to shut the hell up. The Twist has faux laces and and tastefully done elastic sides to bridge the gap between oxford and loafer. Perfect for slipping on before and kicking off after a liquor ‘n’ volume-soaked evening.

 

It might be the expressive suede. It might be the beaten-to-hell amp and pedals. But these I’m making sure to try on first when they arrive at the Landmark. And I pray they come with a stomp box!

 

One more look at that fine patina. This is masterclass work that makes Corthay a shoe atelier. There’s usually someone in apron and shoe at the lap; I’ll be sure to watch how something like this is achieved. (All Photos Credit Maison Corthay)

 

Corthay: Bottier Contemporain Paris

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