Talking Totems: Chad and his Suits

IMG_1621The first B&Tailor trunk show I visited was attended by Changjin, the Park son known for dressing in all manners of his Italian tutelage, nary a necktie.  On Wednesday, I met his older brother Chad, a veritable anomaly of the suit-wearing world, pulling off vintage style, nary a caricature.  His tape measure a stole around his neck, Chad Park shares his favorite item.

Chad, what’s the most special thing you are wearing right now?

My suits.

Which one?

All of them.

Why is that?

My father has made every one.

Do you remember the first one?

Yes, when I was a teenager.  It was my high school graduation, and he made it just for that day.  It was . . . gray, herringbone, three-button.  A classic suit.

Was this kind of suit your idea?

Chad shakes his head, points to the elder Park, and smiles.

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Mastering Made-to-Measure

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The Parks of B&Tailor and Mr. Ha of The Finery Company have a new trick up their sleeves, and I was lucky enough to check it for myself.

The sharp-dressed team hopped into another Hong Kong trunk show the last two days, before making their first trip to Mainland China in Shanghai.  As usual, they set up shop at Admiralty’s JW Marriott, suits, ties, and other accessories in tow.  But this time, the valet rack had a welcome addition: eight blocks of MTM suits for a new program.  After a bit of catching up, Joe asked if I’d like to take the measuring process for a spin.  Now, how can you say no to that?

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Elementally SD

Good denim is alive and well in southern California, and its southernmost outfitter looks over the Del Mar racetrack.

On my recent trip back home to San Diego, I made a point to revisit my city’s thread culture, which I would describe as Ready-to-Beach.  Between surfing historic breaks and digging  toes in warm October sand, we San Diegoans are spoiled blessed with miles and months of beachfront paradise.  This endless summer of life is something we preach, breathe, and undeniably wear.

By most local standards, anything past a tired pair of jeans, a hoodie, and merch booth band tee might prove as superfluous as a second layer between lunch and dinner.  Lone Flag, however, proves that I was either presumptuous or misinformed in my assessment.

 

Talking Totems : Jan and His Tank

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I picked up a suit off the peg when I was in California.  In desperate need of adjustments, I entrusted the job to the best: the gentlemen of The Armoury.  Inside their Landmark location, Jan Tong measured and folded, suggesting a proper fit for my needs.  Coordinated in a mélange of blues, Jan shared his standout item.

Jan, what’s the most special thing you’re wearing right now?

I can’t really say . . . well, here.  My watch.  It’s a Cartier Tank I got a while back.

How long ago?

Four or five years ago, when I was in secondary school.  But the watch is much older.  I was still wearing the band it came with, which I just replaced this year.

Why did you choose this watch?

Under the Brim

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Rubin at home in his workspace at Nick Fouquet.

“When I was a kid, there’d be my dad’s and my grandpa’s sombreros everywhere, and I didn’t really understand what was going on, or pay much attention to it.”

Watching Rubin cut and pull a square of pristine felt into an elegantly battered hat, it seems he’s come a long way from that confused kid in his father’s workspace.

Alberto Hernandez, as Rubin is formally known, takes a quick break from endless orders at Nick Fouquet Hat Maker.  He greets us with a mood befitting the Venice home, where the kitchen sits adjacent to the showroom.

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Rubin, in his handmade apron of repurposed denim and Hawaiian shirt, leads me to the backroom.   Dirt, sawdust, and steam hang in the afternoon air.  He’s in the middle of a multitask.

Confessions of a Dough Nut

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Your typical Sidecar: fresh, crumbling, and about to be inhaled.

 

Everyone has their comfort food.  Donuts be mine.

Every Sunday of my adolescence started in a hellfire of procrastination, running the no-huddle offense to make 10am mass.  “As long as we’re there by the gospel reading, we’re on time!” mama would reason with us.  Clean shirt, a dollar in change in my pocket, and we were out the door by 10:05.

After finding an open pew, the weekly motions and recitations put my hands and lips on autopilot as my mind wandered to the entrance of St. Mary’s.  Out the door, I’d approach the adjacent picnic table, peer into the pink box, deposit my tithe, and enjoy my ritual brunch.  Donuts were Sunday’s blessing.

Now that I’m a big boy and can enjoy maple crullers at my leisure, I look for what the wonderful world has to offer.  Last year, I guarded my cardboard carry-on from Manila to take home Bronuts.  Last month, I made a point to stop by Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee.

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The final three: blackberry & rose geranium, Madagascar vanilla twist, butter & salt.

Look Out! Proud Uncle Over Here

Attention: you may have noticed my Instagram on feed on your right as very baby-heavy.  Well, I guess that’s the way it goes when you become an uncle for the first time.

I guess I could say that this belongs in my site’s category of Purpose, since now all I could think of is serving the little guy as a sage uncle from the far East.  But really, this is just my version of slapping you over the head with wallet photos of my grandchildren – don’t worry, I’ll do that, too.

So without further adieu, please meet Lincoln!

He’s totally gettin’ spoiled.

Club in Trunk, Trunk, Trunk.

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A fitting room drape made of GLADSON guncheck and Cali-friendly suit lining.

*DISCLAIMER: I do not mean to disparage the company with the above title.  I’m just a really big fan of Sisqó.

I can sum up my first and only experience with subscription goods with the following:  “Fool me once . . .”

San Diegoahns in search of red & white delights head north to Temecula, a stretch of road lined with award-winning vineyards.  I once underestimated a multi-stop tasting tour, which ended with me in my friend’s wedge heels “to feel taller,” and a wine club.

“Clubs are fun, and free!” I hiccuped to myself.

Two weeks later, I learned that wine clubs are, in fact, not free, and that I really only need a glass of Sutter Home every six months.  I thank the customer service rep on the other line for understanding my mistake and cancelling my membership.

In the last couple of years, I’ve noticed subscription services make their way into the menswear community.  Of these, two stand out: Bespoke Post, and Trunk Club.  On a chance encounter, I visited the Los Angeles branch of the latter.

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Since it was acquired by Nordstrom last August, Trunk Club has expanded real estate in major cities, adding a face to a name, as well as inviting potential and regular clients to take suit measurements.  Entering their LA warehouse of sorts, stylist Tim O’Neill welcomed me for a brief tour.

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Arte Con Brio

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For being next door neighbors, Hong Kong and Shenzhen share little on the subject of suiting style. Where the average Hong Kong twenty-something prefers a typically western palette of banker’s blues and notched grays, their mainland counterparts stretch towards hyper fashions and over-the-topitude. Silk chests under suede lapels. Übertight black stretch trousers. Square-padded shoulders. Designer names in boldface.

However preferences lie, Hong Kong boasts an international port of call for revered trunk shows and the haberdasheries that host them.  However, the People’s Republic has waited sorely without either. That is, until now.

Art and apparel regularly share the shop floor.
Art and apparel regularly share the shop floor.