The Evolution of My Pants, Part II

What turned into a quick post about my new workhorse trousers turned into a reflection about how seventeen-year old me would shake his head at such a purchase.  Upon further review, I’ve decided to put together a multi-part story on why it took me so long to finally get a nicely fitting pair of pants on my legs.  I’m hoping you’ve been through the same, dear reader.

The Evolution of My Pants, Part II: The Suit that Squeezed Me

Whenever you dig through stacks of photo albums and find yourself five, ten years ago, the first mental task seems to be determining how much you have changed.  Terrible bowl haircuts.  Anti-establishment piercings.  I’ve learned to grimace less at these pictures, commemorating a time when I was growing from boy to man.  It’s a worthwhile experience I eagerly await for my children.  At the same time, I still can’t help but take note of my stylistic follies, even now.

Mens’ fashion moves relatively slowly, but when it does, it arrives in sudden jolts.  As mentioned in Part I, part of my decision to wear girl jeans was simply because a complete lack of slim-fitting options for men.  Of course, skinny jeans are the default choice for most young men; Levi’s 514’s tapered into 511’s, which funneled into 510’s.  Thin was in.

From this sea change of taste came a consequence: slim and tight as the standard of fashion with all garments, not just denim.  Tighter shirts, tighter jackets, tighter everything.  What many men – myself included – did not recognize is that standards in clothing are not universal.  Sometimes we fail to account for good taste.  Even the most flawless style icons can befall this trap.

Classic 007 in You Only Live Twice (photo credit: The Suits of James Bond)

A Turkey of a Time for Clothes

Dad Style
I like to think that Halloween serves to make us delve in our own creativities of how we dress; after a long summer of lesser fabrics and sockless abandon, it takes some transitioning to get back into the habit of deliberate layers. So from October 31st, we trot comfortably into winter with our favorite time of wear, guilty pleasure or not: dad style.

Addendum to Wearing Girl’s Pants, I Guess.

As the course of all rules inevitably go, there’s always an exception.  Imagine my surprise when I faced this same point in a serendipitously specific manner.

A  week ago, I posted about my regrettable decision to wear women’s jeans.  I thought this demon was behind me, and I could move on after the cathartic write-up.  And then it reared its ugly head in the form of a sitcom B-storyline.

Quick context: In The IT Crowd, Moss is a socially stunted IT expert at the bottom rung of Reynholm Industries.  Struggling to gain self-confidence, his boss gives – as usual – unsolicited advice.  This time, Mr. Reynholm passes the secret of his unwavering self-esteem: women’s slacks.  Moss takes this wisdom to heart and, well:

Well, I stand corrected.

By the way, if you haven’t seen it yet The IT Crowd is a fun comedy for freaks, geeks, and everyone in between.  Check it on Netflix!

 

 

Keeping Your Best Foot Forward

Mr. Justin FitzPatrick, owner of J FitzPatrick Footwear and the Shoe Snob.
Mr. Justin FitzPatrick, owner of J.FitzPatrick Footwear and The Shoe Snob.
I feel most comfortable about writing about menswear when I’m reminded what fuels my passion for it.  To measure, fold, cut, revise, and finish an assembly of cloth or leather with the intention of lasting a lifetime of wear requires exceptional skill.  One that takes unwavering commitment and dedication.  This is the origin of the great stories we share about men’s clothing.
A Monday morning offered an opportunity to hear one of these stories.  Justin FitzPatrick is a man who waged an all-in gamble to break into footwear from the bottom-up: cobbling in Florence, shining  shoes on Savile Row, waxing polarizing opinions as The Shoe Snob.  All the while, he amassed the skills and designs necessary to launch J.FitzPatrick Footwear.
A year into the brand, the gentlemen of The Armoury invited Justin to Hong Kong to share his diverse collection of fine shoes.  Before his time in this city ended, Justin was happy to sit with me for a coffee and talk about his journey.

Sundays Shine

The Missus went out for a cross-town errand run, so for  a few hours the home became the pad.  And of what debauchery and bad things did I get participate?

The starting point.
The starting point.  Grenson Ellery Double Monks.

Shoe shining.  I silently keep a distance away from my shoe shining box, because I just don’t want to get started on a pair.  But of course, if you maintain a little bit over time, it’s really not that bad.  So I threw THE COSMOS on and made this happen, finally:

The elusive mirror shine!

It might’ve been Neil Degrasse Tyson’s delightfully scientific baritone to set me at peace, but for the first time I was determined to work in a mirror shine at the toe end of my shoe.  It’s definitely a doable task, but it’s gonna take a whole lot of practice and patience.

RRL: Finer with Age

RRL LogoThis evening we toasted to Double RL’s first year in Hong Kong with canned spirits, the twang of a folk duo, and the appreciation of a damned good denim outfit.

RRL Coat
This is why the Mrs. reminded me “Don’t buy ANYTHING tonight.”

For those unfamiliar, Double RL aka RRL is a fine project for the house of Ralph Lauren.  The outpost of Mr. Lauren’s ardor, this collection showcases his admiration for the frontiersmen and frontierswomen who built the great Americana.  Iron-jawed union heroes and the rigid jeans a 15-hour shift could break.  Sentinels of naval shipyards with only the pockets of a wool pea coat to save their hands.  Daredevils of industry and the finely combed haberdashers who suited their panache.  Every piece in this store carries the familiar tune of honest pay for honest work.  A well-dressed museum of American history, if you’d ask me.

House Band
Heritage Harmonies & Novelty Noodlin

The RRL staff were generous in hosting the event, offering much more than new items to their impressive stock.  Matt Abergel – owner of HK eateries Yardbird, Sunday’s Grocery, and Ronin – led his staff in passing artisan cheese sandwiches and cans of Suntory highballs throughout the night, which made this morning’s hangover completely deserved.  The house band upstairs played out the celebration with bluegrass and and country harmonies, ringing in the anniversary with all the right tunes for a house of this style.

Joseph Au, vintagist masterclass (Photo credit: Ethan Newton)

The Evolution of My Pants, Part I

What turned into a quick post about my new workhorse trousers turned into a reflection about how seventeen-year old me would shake his head at such a purchase.  Upon further review, I’ve decided to put together a multi-part story on why it took me so long to finally get a nicely fitting pair of pants on my legs.  I’m hoping you’ve been through the same, dear reader.

The Evolution of My Pants, Part I: The Price of Fitting In

 If your misunderstood, angst-filled youth took place around the early 2000’s in American Suburbia, then the following statement should apply to you, or at least for my sake I hope to God it does: I’ve once owned a pair of girl’s jeans.

Such was the uniform of the early-era “Scene kid.” 80’s punk wore ripped jeans and black leather jackets, unifying a growing subculture.  2000’s hardcore threw on basketball shorts and baseball tees, allowing perfect mobility to activate the pit. But as bad luck and worse taste would have it, I chose the path of the early Scene.

The best Scene look bad decisions could buy.
The best Scene look bad decisions could buy.

A quick lesson on this “Scene.” From what I remember, in the late 90’s punk started moving towards a heavier and more complex sound, led by prototypes Refused and At the Drive-In. Once the sound inspired more bands to form, a fire caught in the hearts of the youth, who screamed and danced together in tiny venues. As a subculture, the genre was followed by a dress code, which I neither understood nor questioned. The Scene’s pieces of flair included the front mullet (regrettably detailed here), an edgy lip ring (mine lasted all of twenty-two hours before my mom threatened to kick me out of the house), and of course, those damn girl jeans.